Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Premiere Selection: 2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Eloge

2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Eloge
Grape Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled Artisanal Sausage and Blueberry-Sage Reduction

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards are located just east of Saint Helena in the Napa Valley, where Conn Creek flows from Howell Mountain. It's 26 acres of vines in a "grape-growing paradise," the owners boast. Here, winemaker Todd Anderson and assistant Mac Sawyer craft a Bordeaux-style blend that Robert Parker calls "a staggering wine that's utterly profound" with aromas and flavors like incense, cedar, kirsch, smoke, spice box and forest floor (and a score of 96 points).

Beneath all of those savory notes is a core of black fruits that sing right through to the finish. The inspiration for the style of blend, it seems, is Medoc, and the ageability is right on par; this will most likely drink well for 20-25 years to come, should you choose to wait that long. But it's drinking beautifully now, and as they say...there's no time like the present.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/01696.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Premiere Selection: 2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc

2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Chinese five-spice-rubbed duck breast

In the write-up for the Cellar Selections, I made the rather bold assertion that nobody's having more fun making wine in the Napa Valley than Robert Foley. If that's true, then Sean Larkin is certainly in close running. And it's all because he made a bold choice, or rather a series of bold choices, to pursue a passion. Larkin was born in Inverkeithing Fife, Scotland, and began his professional life as a sheet-metal worker. His success at this line of work brought him to New Jersey, and after some years of backbreaking work he began to wonder whether this was really what he wanted to be doing when he was 50 or 60.

So he slowly began learning about wine. He became a part-time sommelier, traveled to the Napa Valley for the first time in 1991, and was hooked. He moved to the Bay Area to work for a wine distributor, and once he felt he knew enough about the process, he bought his first half-ton of grapes in 1999 and decided to give winemaking a go.

Two years later, he released his 48 cases of inaugural wine, and considers it nothing short of a miracle that it was an instant success, garnering a 91-point score from Robert Parker. The next year he bought a whole ton of grapes, did just as well, and increased production just enough to make a real enterprise out of it but remains in the boutique category to keep quality high. And while Cabernet Sauvignon is what most enthusiasts look for in the Napa Valley, Larkin is one of the few Napa winemakers taking the time (and developing the expertise) to make a truly outstanding high-end Cabernet Franc.

The 2006 is full of blueberry and blackberry flavors and hints of savory herb, licorice and purple flowers, with just the right acidity to balance out some pretty substantial tannins. Parker gave it 93 points, we certainly give it our stamp of approval...and Sean gives thanks that all that sweat finally paid off. Here's to doing what you love, and putting a little old-fashioned elbow grease in along the way.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/09927.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Cellar Selection: 2007 Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono

2007 Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono
Grape variety: Charbono
Region: Napa Valley
Food pairing: Good Pizza and Pink Floyd

I think it's a safe bet to say, no, scratch that, I can guarantee you nobody's having more fun making wine in the Napa Valley than Robert Foley. And in large part, it's because he's gotten good enough at what he does to do only what he wants. After a few decades of building his career as winemaker at several very prominent wineries (most notably 15 years at Pride), Bob now makes wine for Switchback Ridge, the highly lauded Hourglass, and under his own Robert Foley label.

And while his Cabernets and Clarets have gotten some pretty impressive scores (absolutely delicious, by the way,) the rarely used Charbono grape holds a special place in his heart and his cellar. Take one sip of this heady, exuberant wine full of raspberry, chocolate, and forest notes and you'll question why virtually no one else makes the stuff. I guess few people know the grape like Foley does. And few people take the time to play rock music for the wine as it mellows in the caves. That just may have something to do with it. Give the wine its due and drink it while listening to your favorite rock album. Bob would appreciate it.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/60046.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Cellar Selection: 2006 Banknote Wine Company "The Vault" Napa Valley Red Blend

2006 Banknote Wine Company "The Vault" Napa Valley Red Blend
Grape Variety: Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled Squab or Quail Stuffed with Thyme Sprigs

There aren't many symbols so iconic to American culture quite like our currency. A graphic designer by trade and a self-professed wine-lover at heart, proprietor Pete Nixon decided to merge his two passions by designing a unique and striking wine label; all he needed was an equally unique and striking wine to go inside. So he enlisted consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel and came up with just under 600 cases of this rare blend.

With Zinfandel, Syrah, and Cab in the mix, it carries deep aromas and flavors of black cherry, cigar box and caramel with a lengthy, impressive finish. (Fans of Orin Swift's "The Prisoner" may see similarities in style.) Each bottle features one of twelve designs taken from early American banknotes from various states, adding to the uniqueness and collectability of this very interesting bottling.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/09387.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Reserve Selection: 2007 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc

2007 Lang and Reed Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: North Coast (Lake County and Napa Valley), California
Food pairing: Sirloin Steak Kebabs with Bell Pepper

Poor misunderstood Cabernet Franc "can't get no respect." For years, winemakers couldn't figure out where to plant it and how to treat it, and most consumers didn't find much reason to want to drink it on its own. Sure, it's a great blending grape, everyone thought, but can it really stand on its own? John and Tracey Skupney of Lang and Reed Wine Company certainly think so. In fact, they're so convinced that they've made it their flagship wine: a bold move amongst Napa neighbors who almost unanimously anchor their brand on Cabernet Sauvignon.

"It's definitely the Rodney Dangerfield of the varietals," John says. But when done right, (as Lang & Reed is), Cabernet Franc rivals, even trumps, great Cabernet Sauvignon by providing more dried herb, tobacco, graphite and pepper notes behind berry fruit. It's the savory side of the Cabernet family, and savory deserves some respect.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/66049.html

May 2009 Wine Club Selection - 2005 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst Cabernet Sauvignon
Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: St. Helena, Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Cashel blue cheese soufflé

Though we covered the whole "green thing" last month, it would be difficult to talk about Spottswoode winery and the ladies who run it without talking about their nature-loving ways. If there's one humble phrase you hear a lot when speaking with the Novak women of Spottswoode, it's "stewards of the land." This family counts themselves truly lucky to take care of this special piece of property, if only for a few generations, and as such they see it as their duty to take good care of their little corner of the earth. They've been farming their vineyards organically since 1985, earning their California Certified Organic Farmers certification in 1990.

And their list of earth-friendly practices approaches a mile in length. They use solar power and cover crops to attract pests away from the vines rather than spraying pesticides and fertigation (the application of organic fertilizers via irrigation). Their vineyard map legend details spots throughout the vines where olive trees, beehives, insectaries, bird and owl boxes and chicken coops are housed. In a few words, they're concerned with the health of their land, and they seem to have fun maintaining a healthy biodiversity on the property. While Spottswoode is best known for their namesake proprietary bottling, their Lyndenhurst bottling is named for one of the former titles of the property, and pays homage to the heritage of the site. Delicious aromas of dark roasted coffee and brambly black fruit give way to a mouthful of ripe plums, chocolate and dark cherries on the palate. A fun, classy effort from some fun, classy ladies.

May 2009 Wine Club Selection - 2005 Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

2005 Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled New York strip steaks

If you think Karen Culler's good with Syrah (and she is), then wait until you try her Cabernet. The fruit is sourced from Ladera's two estate vineyards, the Lone Canyon Vineyard in the western foothills of the Mount Veeder, and one in the higher elevations of Howell Mountain, where Ladera's winery is located. The former vineyard receives sun-drenched days (being closer to the valley floor) and a shorter, more dynamic ripening season, while the latter, situated above the fog line, benefits from cooler (but still sunny) days and warmer nights, allowing for longer hang-time.

When blended together, the two vineyards' Cabernet grapes complement each other well. A touch of Petit Verdot (4%) adds a little color and juicy depth to a wine that's already packed with richness, structure and depth. Brambly mountain berry fruit and cherries are complemented by notes of anise and full tannins. Drinking beautifully now, this one could very well age for another eight to ten years.

May 2009 Wine Club Selection - 2006 Culler Syrah Napa

2006 Culler Syrah Napa
Grape Variety: Syrah
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled tuna steaks

Though there's certainly no shortage of women winemakers, particularly in California, we decided to go out on a limb and highlight two different wines from the same winemaker for this month's Cellar Club. While many winemakers have their "go-to varietal", the one they make really well, and then perhaps dabble in another grape or two, Karen Culler does an absolutely phenomenal job with both Syrah (produced under her own Culler label) and the Cabernets that she produces for Ladera.

Culler Syrah Napa Valley is what we like to think of as the antidote for those who have been put off by jammy, sticky, hotter-climate Syrahs. Made from Napa Valley grapes, which see just enough sun for ripe red berry flavors and just enough cool nights for ample acidity and savory complexity, Culler's Syrahs are simply THE best wine to get you out of your Cab rut. Not that you shouldn't enjoy the Ladera we're sending your way too...but everyone's gotta get out of the box now and then. Thanks, Karen, for putting truly great California Syrah on the radar.

2006 Tres Sabores "Porque No"

2006 Tres Sabores "Porque No"
Grape variety: Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Petite Syrah
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Beef, lamb and mushroom kebabs
Julie Johnson is no one-trick pony, nor is her ranch on the Rutherford Benchland of Napa Valley. On her dusty California soils, Julie grows organically certified Zinfandel, Cabernet, Petite Syrah and Petite Verdot grapes, along with olives, Meyer lemons and pomegranates.

For some years, she has used the grapes to make two stellar estate wines: Rutherford Zinfandel and Rutherford Perspective Cabernet. Eight years ago, she had a few barrels of each left over, so she asked herself what would happen if she combined all the good wine she had left over from both with a little touch of Petit Verdot and Petite Syrah into one bottling. The answer was, naturally, "Porque no?" ...Why not? The spontaneity worked out well, forming a wine that's packed with black cherry and berry fruits, structured tannins from the Cab, spiciness from the Zin, and earthiness from the Petite Syrah.