Gary's Wine Club August 2009 Cellar Selection: 2005 Aalto Ribera del Duero

2005 Aalto Ribera del Duero
Grape variety: Tinto Fino
Region: Ribera del Duero, Spain
Food pairing: Grilled leg of lamb or chorizo
Chosen By: Rick Bedkowski, Wine Associate, Madison

Bodegas Aalto first made this wine in the 2000 vintage, and the wines continue to get better each year. But the 2005 is probably the best they've produced yet. It's no surprise since Mariano Garcia, Director of Vega Sicilia for 30 years, is part of the winemaking team. This wine is produced from 100% Tinto Fino grapes that have an average vine age of 60 years (some as old as 90 years.) After 23 months in oak barrels, the final result is a rather voluptuous wine loaded with crushed blackberry, blueberry, and cinnamon spice. Rick Bedkowski, wine associate in our Madison store, artist, and lover of Spanish wines and good tequila, chose this wine for its great balance. "Based on the deep-purple, almost ink-like color of the wine, I thought the mouthfeel would be massive, but it wasn't...which was nice. It was surprisingly well balanced with dark fruit, mild earthiness and soft tannins. And it would go great with some lamb."

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/09838.html

Gary's Wine Club August 2009 Cellar Selection: 2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir

2007 Hamilton Russel Vineyards Pinot Noir
Grape Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Walker Bay, South Africa
Food pairing: Dijon mustard and rosemary-encrusted rack of lamb
Chosen By: Cathy Wilkes, Internet Wine Sales Manager, Wayne

"When I think Pinot Noir," says Cathy Wilkes, manager of our virtual web store, "the first place that comes to mind is Burgundy, then perhaps California, then Oregon, and the South Island of New Zealand...but never South Africa. But after I tasted Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir for the first time, I realized just what I'd been missing!" The Walker Bay area of South Africa, where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet and the cold current from Antarctica flows, provides a cool climate for growing Pinot Noir. And through two generations of stewardship, the Hamilton Russell family has put much effort into determining the perfect varietals and clones to plant in the estate's unique clay, stone and shale soils. Their 2007 Pinot Noir bottling earned 93 points from Wine Spectator, a spot in the Top 60 New World Pinot Noirs by Decanter, and an enthusiastic nod of approval from our own Cathy.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/south_africa/65821.html

Gary's Wine Club August 2009 Reserve Selection: 2007 J.M. Boillot Montagny 1er Cru

2007 J.M. Boillot Montagny 1er Cru

Grape Variety: chardonnay

Region: Burgundy, France

Food pairing: Pan-seared Chilean sea bass with mushrooms and Marsala wine

Chosen By: Thomas McGarry, Assistant Manager, Bernardsville and Wayne

Thomas McGarry is one of our resident Francophiles. The only thing he loves more than pronouncing the appellations of Burgundy is drinking the wines that hail from there. So when I set

him loose to choose a white wine for this month's Reserve Club, it was no surprise that he came back to me grinning, bottle and glass of golden Montagny 1er Cru in hand, and said, "Taste it." The wine was terrific...but it needed to fit the price range for the Reserve Club. To my great surprise, it did. A Premier Cru at this price is nearly unheard of, but leave it to Thomas to sniff it out. "In trying a number of 2007 white Burgundies," Thomas says, "this wine floored me with its rich complexity and poetic balance. It's floral, with scents of apple, hazelnut, a kiss of honey...and it has depth and richness with a zesty, mineral finish." His kind of wine and, we hope, yours.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/10323.html

July 2009 Recipe of the Month

New England Lobster Rolls with Dilled Mayonnaise

Serves 6

Wine Pairing: 2007 Ten Lakes Chardonnay

This classic picnic recipe has become a Fourth of July tradition for East-Coasters like us. To match the buttery-rich lobster salad, a Chardonnay of either the toasty-oaked or crisp unoaked persuasion works best.

Ingredients:
-1 1/2 lbs lobster meat, torn into generous chunks
-9 Tbsp. good quality mayonnaise
-1/2 tsp. smoked paprika
-Salt and pepper to taste
-1 small head of Bibb lettuce
-6 Tbsp. butter, softened
-2 Tbsp. fresh dill, chopped
-1/2 cup chopped celery
-6 hot dog rolls

-In a bowl, gently mix lobster, mayonnaise, celery, dill, and smoked paprika. Salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
-Butter the cut sides of the hot dog buns and toast until lightly browned. Lay several of lettuce on each bun, then fill with the lobster salad. Serve with fresh corn on the cob, cucumber salad, and other picnic fixin's.

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Premiere Selection: 2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Eloge

2005 Anderson's Conn Valley Eloge
Grape Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled Artisanal Sausage and Blueberry-Sage Reduction

Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards are located just east of Saint Helena in the Napa Valley, where Conn Creek flows from Howell Mountain. It's 26 acres of vines in a "grape-growing paradise," the owners boast. Here, winemaker Todd Anderson and assistant Mac Sawyer craft a Bordeaux-style blend that Robert Parker calls "a staggering wine that's utterly profound" with aromas and flavors like incense, cedar, kirsch, smoke, spice box and forest floor (and a score of 96 points).

Beneath all of those savory notes is a core of black fruits that sing right through to the finish. The inspiration for the style of blend, it seems, is Medoc, and the ageability is right on par; this will most likely drink well for 20-25 years to come, should you choose to wait that long. But it's drinking beautifully now, and as they say...there's no time like the present.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/01696.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Premiere Selection: 2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc

2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Chinese five-spice-rubbed duck breast

In the write-up for the Cellar Selections, I made the rather bold assertion that nobody's having more fun making wine in the Napa Valley than Robert Foley. If that's true, then Sean Larkin is certainly in close running. And it's all because he made a bold choice, or rather a series of bold choices, to pursue a passion. Larkin was born in Inverkeithing Fife, Scotland, and began his professional life as a sheet-metal worker. His success at this line of work brought him to New Jersey, and after some years of backbreaking work he began to wonder whether this was really what he wanted to be doing when he was 50 or 60.

So he slowly began learning about wine. He became a part-time sommelier, traveled to the Napa Valley for the first time in 1991, and was hooked. He moved to the Bay Area to work for a wine distributor, and once he felt he knew enough about the process, he bought his first half-ton of grapes in 1999 and decided to give winemaking a go.

Two years later, he released his 48 cases of inaugural wine, and considers it nothing short of a miracle that it was an instant success, garnering a 91-point score from Robert Parker. The next year he bought a whole ton of grapes, did just as well, and increased production just enough to make a real enterprise out of it but remains in the boutique category to keep quality high. And while Cabernet Sauvignon is what most enthusiasts look for in the Napa Valley, Larkin is one of the few Napa winemakers taking the time (and developing the expertise) to make a truly outstanding high-end Cabernet Franc.

The 2006 is full of blueberry and blackberry flavors and hints of savory herb, licorice and purple flowers, with just the right acidity to balance out some pretty substantial tannins. Parker gave it 93 points, we certainly give it our stamp of approval...and Sean gives thanks that all that sweat finally paid off. Here's to doing what you love, and putting a little old-fashioned elbow grease in along the way.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/09927.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Cellar Selection: 2007 Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono

2007 Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono
Grape variety: Charbono
Region: Napa Valley
Food pairing: Good Pizza and Pink Floyd

I think it's a safe bet to say, no, scratch that, I can guarantee you nobody's having more fun making wine in the Napa Valley than Robert Foley. And in large part, it's because he's gotten good enough at what he does to do only what he wants. After a few decades of building his career as winemaker at several very prominent wineries (most notably 15 years at Pride), Bob now makes wine for Switchback Ridge, the highly lauded Hourglass, and under his own Robert Foley label.

And while his Cabernets and Clarets have gotten some pretty impressive scores (absolutely delicious, by the way,) the rarely used Charbono grape holds a special place in his heart and his cellar. Take one sip of this heady, exuberant wine full of raspberry, chocolate, and forest notes and you'll question why virtually no one else makes the stuff. I guess few people know the grape like Foley does. And few people take the time to play rock music for the wine as it mellows in the caves. That just may have something to do with it. Give the wine its due and drink it while listening to your favorite rock album. Bob would appreciate it.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/60046.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Cellar Selection: 2006 Banknote Wine Company "The Vault" Napa Valley Red Blend

2006 Banknote Wine Company "The Vault" Napa Valley Red Blend
Grape Variety: Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Grilled Squab or Quail Stuffed with Thyme Sprigs

There aren't many symbols so iconic to American culture quite like our currency. A graphic designer by trade and a self-professed wine-lover at heart, proprietor Pete Nixon decided to merge his two passions by designing a unique and striking wine label; all he needed was an equally unique and striking wine to go inside. So he enlisted consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel and came up with just under 600 cases of this rare blend.

With Zinfandel, Syrah, and Cab in the mix, it carries deep aromas and flavors of black cherry, cigar box and caramel with a lengthy, impressive finish. (Fans of Orin Swift's "The Prisoner" may see similarities in style.) Each bottle features one of twelve designs taken from early American banknotes from various states, adding to the uniqueness and collectability of this very interesting bottling.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/09387.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Reserve Selection: 2007 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc

2007 Lang and Reed Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: North Coast (Lake County and Napa Valley), California
Food pairing: Sirloin Steak Kebabs with Bell Pepper

Poor misunderstood Cabernet Franc "can't get no respect." For years, winemakers couldn't figure out where to plant it and how to treat it, and most consumers didn't find much reason to want to drink it on its own. Sure, it's a great blending grape, everyone thought, but can it really stand on its own? John and Tracey Skupney of Lang and Reed Wine Company certainly think so. In fact, they're so convinced that they've made it their flagship wine: a bold move amongst Napa neighbors who almost unanimously anchor their brand on Cabernet Sauvignon.

"It's definitely the Rodney Dangerfield of the varietals," John says. But when done right, (as Lang & Reed is), Cabernet Franc rivals, even trumps, great Cabernet Sauvignon by providing more dried herb, tobacco, graphite and pepper notes behind berry fruit. It's the savory side of the Cabernet family, and savory deserves some respect.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/66049.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Reserve Selection: 2007 Hermann Wiemer Dry Riesling

2007 Hermann Wiemer Dry Riesling
Grape variety: Riesling
Region: Finger Lakes, New York
Food pairing: Grilled Snapper with Green Curry

It's not often that a New York wine, or any East Coast wine for that matter, gets significant recognition from the national press. Even though the Hudson Valley and Finger Lakes regions are capable of rivaling the West Coast and even Europe when it comes to certain varietals (Riesling chief among them), they're often overlooked as minor-league.

But Hermann J. Wiemer's winery, established in the Finger Lakes in 1979, is finally getting some of the recognition they deserve for producing a dry Riesling that rivals the best in the same price category from Washington and even Alsace. Lime zest, a little wild mint and vanilla mingle to offer extraordinary freshness, with just the smallest hint of floral sweetness on the finish. Wine & Spirits magazine awarded this wine 92 points, while both Food and Wine and Saveur agreed that Wiemer is one of THE best American Riesling producers, hands-down. East Coasters, take pride; West Coasters, take notice.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/east_coast/59002.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Vintner Selection: 2007 Cricklewood Pinot Noir

2007 Cricklewood Pinot Noir
Grape Variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Sonoma County, California
Food pairing: Grilled Maple-Glazed Salmon

From the moment the grapes started rolling in to the winemaking facilities, those in the industry knew that the 2007 vintage was going to be a good one in Sonoma County. Yields were down, but quality was definitively up, so while less wine may be available, what we can get our hands on is exceptionally good. "The good news," said one winery's General Manager, "is that we are extremely pleased with the quality of the 2007 harvest. Berry size was small, smaller than we have seen in more than 10 years, and the fruit developed intense varietal flavors with rich, mouth-filling tannins." It shows in bottlings like this one, the 2007 Cricklewood Pinot Noir. Perfectly ripe cherry-like fruit and a nice balance of acidity and tannins make this a quality Pinot Noir rarely found under $20.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/08908.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Vintner Selection: 2007 Ten Lakes Chardonnay

2007 Ten Lakes Chardonnay
Grape variety: Chardonnay
Region: Sonoma County, California
Food pairing: New England Lobster Roll

For this month's Vintner Club, it's all about Sonoma: and for good reason. While the 2007 vintage has been touted for Cabernet in Napa Valley and for Syrah and Grenache in the Rhone Valley, we're also discovering that the 2007 vintage has been phenominally kind to Sonoma County, particularly where their two leading varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, are concerned.

Ten Lakes Chardonnay has become a go-to wine for us, and has proven itself with repeat customers who love its food-friendly and easy-drinking flavors of crisp apple, peach, and subtle vanilla oak, Lightly chill a bottle to serve along-side New England lobster rolls for a positively All-American picnic.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/04116.html

June 2009 Recipe Of The Month

Grilled Corn on the Cob with Chile-Molasses Butter

Serves: 6-8

Wine Pairing: Any of the Reds in this Month's Selections

This simple mixture gives regular corn on the cob a sticky, sweet, smoky, salty and spicy kick.
6-8 ears of fresh sweet corn on the cob, shucked
1/2 cup (1 stick) of butter
1/2 tsp good chile powder or smoked paprika
1 Tbsp. dark molasses
1/4 tsp salt
- Melt butter gently in a sauté pan or microwave-safe bowl in the microwave. Stir in molasses, then the salt and chile powder a bit at a time, tasting for your preference as you go. Adjust amounts as necessary if you prefer it a little sweeter, spicier or saltier.

- Grill corn on the cob on a hot grill, turning every few minutes to get nicely charred grill marks. (About 7 min total.)

- With a barbecue brush, evenly coat each ear of corn just before serving.

2005 Greenock Creek Alice's Shiraz
Grape Variety: Shiraz
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled dry-aged rib-eye steak

These days, it may seem that 96 point Barossa Shiraz is about as rare as a wallaby in the same parts. (Though I have to admit I have absolutely no idea how rare a Barossa wallaby really is.) But should you find yourself stumbling across the Barossa Valley looking for a wallaby, chances are you'd trip over a high-scoring Shiraz or two along the way. There may or may not be a river of it. We can neither confirm nor deny.

That doesn't mean, however, that Greenock Creek is just another high-scoring Shiraz in a sea of such wine. On the contrary, Greenock is quite special in its own right. Owned by Michael and Annabelle Waugh, this winery, as Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate puts it, "remains one of South Australia's most iconic wineries. Start with great terroir, add in old vine material and meticulous winemaking, and end with extraordinary results." Certainly sounds like a recipe for success. The 2005 Shiraz that they lovingly named "Alice's" spent 28 months in seasoned American oak hogsheads rather than the more typically favored French Oak barriques, lending a spicier, cigar-box character to the already meaty old-vine grapes. Layers of blueberry, smoke, game and truffle made this wine what is, and not surprisingly, earned it 96 points from the Wine Advocate.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/72553.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 Selection: 2007 Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon
Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: McLaren Vale, Australia
Food pairing: Good artisan sausage grilled with bell peppers


The powers that be at Mitolo like to use the names of their wines to pay homage to something special. It seems to be a growing trend among winemakers to let the name of the wine speak for more than just berry flavors and well-integrated tannins. Serpico, as some may already know, was a New York City police officer who exposed a great deal of corruption within his own force during his era. What on Earth does this have to do with wine?

In the most diplomatic terms possible, the folks at Mitolo say that the name of this wine was brought about because, "With Mitolo Serpico we aim to step outside our peers and redefine the accepted style of Australian wine." Apparently a bit tired of the status quo in the Aussie wine world, they decided to try something a little different. So for their Serpico Cabernet, they've borrowed the method of partially drying the grapes from Amarone, and created something entirely different than most of their neighbors. After drying and fermentation, the wine is aged in 100% new French oak to balance those ripe, raisiny berry flavors with a little toasty tannin and spice. It's intense, unique; the kind of wine that would make our Serpico proud.


http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/09716.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 Selection: 2008 Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Pinot Noir

2008 Martinborough Vineyard Te Tera Pinot Noir
Grape variety: Pinot Noir
Region: Martinborough, New Zealand
Food pairing: Seared Ahi tuna with tomatillo salsa

A few years back, we discovered a small vineyard called Martinborough that was producing a very good Sauvignon Blanc from the eponymous appellation in New Zealand. Te Tera Sauvignon Blanc became a staple on our shelves, but it was only this year that the quality of their Pinot Noir came to our attention.

Perhaps it was the blessing of a very good growing season, or the able hands of winemaker Paul Mason, but whatever the cause, we've found Martinborough's 2008 Te Tera Pinot Noir to be a fantastic example of what New Zealand Pinot can be: at once light and silky, but also carrying deep chocolate and plum flavors that make it rich without heaviness. Ever humble, the winery gives much of the credit to the mercy of Mother Nature in this vintage. Excellent winter soil moisture combined with a very settled spring (to give us) some of the best flowering conditions we've ever seen. Glorious summer weather... minimal rainfall ... a dream season overall. If only Mother Nature were this kind all the time.


http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/new_zealand/09131.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 Selection: 2008 Momo Sauvignon Blanc

2008 Momo Sauvignon Blanc
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: New Zealand
Food pairing: Pesto-marinated shrimp on the barbie

We tasted this new find in early March this year, prior to any press, and were pleasantly surprised. Admirably round in style with ripe citrus fruits, bright acidity, and not overtly herbaceous, as we find some New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs to be...this was going to be a hit. So seeing the summer months on the horizon, we bought what we could on the spot and set some aside for the June Wine Club. As it often happens, we were not the only ones that were impressed by the Momo. It appeared in the April 30th issue of Wine Spectator and was rated 90 points. A popular national restaurant chain jumped on board, pouring it by the glass, and suddenly only a limited amount was available. We thanked our lucky stars that we had already set some aside for you just in time. The perfect quaff as the mercury rises, we think you'll enjoy the grapefruit, tangerine and green melon flavors and the kicky, juicy finish.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/new_zealand/08842.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 Selection: 2006 John Duval Plexus

2006 John Duval Plexus
Grape variety: Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre
Region: Barossa Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled kebabs of smoked bacon-wrapped scallops and figs

Australia, admittedly, makes some fantastic smack-you-across-the-face style Shiraz. Thankfully, however, that's not the only game in town. John Duval manages to reign it all in a little with their Plexus blend of Shiraz, Grenache, and Mourvedre from various regions within the Barossa Valley, creating a wine that's refreshingly multi-dimensional. All three grapes get to shine here: the bold Shiraz that makes the base of the wine, the old bush vine Grenache and the even older (some vines topping out at a century) Mourvedre. Critic Josh Raynolds said of the previous vintage, "I love the interplay of sweet, juicy fruit, supple tannins and understated oak. Finishes with the clarity, complexity and persistence of wines that cost three times the price. One of the greatest values in Australian wine today." The wine lived up to the rep again this year, when Raynolds described it as "Sappy and fresh, with vivid raspberry, cherry and smoky mineral flavors finishing clean, brisk and juicy."

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/75298.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 Selection: 2006 Oliverhill Clarendon Shiraz

2006 Oliverhill Clarendon Shiraz
Grape Variety: Shiraz
Region: McLaren Vale, Australia
Food pairing: Grilled duck breasts with blueberry-sage sauce


To all of us a half a world away from the Australian continent, this country often seems like a "big production" place, where rivers of critter wines must flow for miles on end. Walking past the case-stacks of our big-name Aussie brands, we often forget that Australia has its little guys too. And these little guys are making some truly unique, hand-selected and hand-crafted wines. In McLaren Vale, there is a stretch of dirt along Seaview Road along which some of the best fruit in the continent is grown. This fruit makes it into the likes of Penfolds Grange and Rosemount's Balmoral, among others, and right smack in the middle of all of this is a tiny winery called Oliverhill.

Here, the grapes are cropped back to only two tons per acre before they're harvested, fermented, and aged in 20% new oak for 16 months. The resulting wine strikes a balance between smoky, earthy flavors and black and blue berry fruits with a nice structure that should allow it to age well for at least five or six years to come.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/67844.html

Gary's Wine Club June 2009 selection: 2007 Renegades Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Renegades Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Clare Valley, Australia
Food pairing: Burgers on foccacia with spinach, tomatoes, rocket and onions

Justin Ardill is an MD Cardiologist, winemaker, and proprietor of Reilly's wines in the Clare Valley, Australia. (So if anyone's invested in the benefits of red wine for the heart, it's this guy.) When he's not jumpstarting ventricles or making Shiraz and Cab for his own label, he's crafting this easy-drinking bottle under the renegades brand.

What we like about it is that the higher altitude and cool nights in Reilly's vineyards allow for classic Cabernet structure...not an Aussie Cabernet that's trying to be Shiraz. Just the right interplay between ripe, dark berry fruit and tannins makes this Cabernet Sauvignon just right for everyday steak and burger fare.




http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/australia/08227.html