Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Premiere Selection: 2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc

2006 Larkin Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: Napa Valley, California
Food pairing: Chinese five-spice-rubbed duck breast

In the write-up for the Cellar Selections, I made the rather bold assertion that nobody's having more fun making wine in the Napa Valley than Robert Foley. If that's true, then Sean Larkin is certainly in close running. And it's all because he made a bold choice, or rather a series of bold choices, to pursue a passion. Larkin was born in Inverkeithing Fife, Scotland, and began his professional life as a sheet-metal worker. His success at this line of work brought him to New Jersey, and after some years of backbreaking work he began to wonder whether this was really what he wanted to be doing when he was 50 or 60.

So he slowly began learning about wine. He became a part-time sommelier, traveled to the Napa Valley for the first time in 1991, and was hooked. He moved to the Bay Area to work for a wine distributor, and once he felt he knew enough about the process, he bought his first half-ton of grapes in 1999 and decided to give winemaking a go.

Two years later, he released his 48 cases of inaugural wine, and considers it nothing short of a miracle that it was an instant success, garnering a 91-point score from Robert Parker. The next year he bought a whole ton of grapes, did just as well, and increased production just enough to make a real enterprise out of it but remains in the boutique category to keep quality high. And while Cabernet Sauvignon is what most enthusiasts look for in the Napa Valley, Larkin is one of the few Napa winemakers taking the time (and developing the expertise) to make a truly outstanding high-end Cabernet Franc.

The 2006 is full of blueberry and blackberry flavors and hints of savory herb, licorice and purple flowers, with just the right acidity to balance out some pretty substantial tannins. Parker gave it 93 points, we certainly give it our stamp of approval...and Sean gives thanks that all that sweat finally paid off. Here's to doing what you love, and putting a little old-fashioned elbow grease in along the way.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/09927.html

Gary's Wine Club July 2009 Reserve Selection: 2007 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc

2007 Lang and Reed Cabernet Franc
Grape variety: Cabernet Franc
Region: North Coast (Lake County and Napa Valley), California
Food pairing: Sirloin Steak Kebabs with Bell Pepper

Poor misunderstood Cabernet Franc "can't get no respect." For years, winemakers couldn't figure out where to plant it and how to treat it, and most consumers didn't find much reason to want to drink it on its own. Sure, it's a great blending grape, everyone thought, but can it really stand on its own? John and Tracey Skupney of Lang and Reed Wine Company certainly think so. In fact, they're so convinced that they've made it their flagship wine: a bold move amongst Napa neighbors who almost unanimously anchor their brand on Cabernet Sauvignon.

"It's definitely the Rodney Dangerfield of the varietals," John says. But when done right, (as Lang & Reed is), Cabernet Franc rivals, even trumps, great Cabernet Sauvignon by providing more dried herb, tobacco, graphite and pepper notes behind berry fruit. It's the savory side of the Cabernet family, and savory deserves some respect.

More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/california/66049.html