If you're at all familiar with Spain itself (and not just their wines), you know that it's a country where tradition and modern innovation collide in a wonderfully eclectic way. Gastronomically, they're known to be on the cutting edge right now, with chefs like Ferran Adria and Juan Roca concocting crazy molecular creations that dance on the fine line between science experiments and cuisine. And yet, at the core of their food experience, traditional tapas bars and basic regional ingredients still dominate the daily scene. Likewise, winemaking in Spain is a fun tug-of-war between tradition and experimentation. We have the traditional, established winemakers of Rioja sticking to the strict and time-tested D.O. standards of indigenous grapes and long aging, while just a vineyard or two away we may have a young (or youg-at-heart) winemaker playing with amped up Cabernet or putting a new spin on traditional Tempranillo. After a recent trip to Spain last fall, I approached this month's selections with a similar spirit of experimentation, while still giving a nod to the traditions that bring us age-worthy Spanish wines. I think you'll have fun trying something old and something new, so to speak, and seeing just which "spirit of Spain" is more your style.
Vintner Selection
2009 Finca Os Cobatos Godello
Grape variety: Godello
Region: Monterrei, Galicia, Spain
Food pairing: Grilled fresh sardines on crusty bread
The Mendez family of Paso do Mar owns vineyards in three Galician DO's. Their vineyard in the Monterrei region benefits from being the warmest and driest appellation within Galicia, with a high average of sunny days per year. On a sandy slope, dotted with quartz crystals that magnify the sun's rays against the vines, they grow a ripe fruited and beautifully refreshing Godello. If you're a fan of fresh marinated sardines, this wine would pair extremely well with the sardines on crusty bread that are served in tapas/pinxo bars all along the coasts of Spain. The lightly floral flavors (think chamomile tea) compliment the briny fish nicely, and the refreshing acidity cleanses the palate as you snack.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/16343.html
2007 Nuvol Yecla
Grape variety: Monastrell
Region: Yecla, Spain 
Food pairing: Brined Spanish olive-stuffed pork
Monastrell has faced a few obstacles in becoming a household name. For starters, it goes by three different names, depending on the wine region in which it's grown:(Monastrell/Mourvedre/Mataro. To further complicate things, it's a slightly finicky grape to grow. But the reward for those who tough it out is a phenomenally unique wine: thick purple juice that's, dark, tannic and savory. The most often used descriptor is the French term "animale", which conveys a meaty gaminess punctuated by an herbal sage-like note. Other flavors and aromas to be found are blackberries, leather, and spices like clove, nutmeg and anise. Loaded with ripe cherry fruit with hints of vanilla and spice from aging in French and American oak, this 100% Monastrell comes from the tiny Yecla region in Southeastern Spain, which is known for quality and value. Perfect with roasted meats and stronger cheeses.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/14670.html
Reserve Selection
2009 Tomas Cusine Auzells
Grape variety: Macabeu, Parellada, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muller Thurgau, Riesling,Albarino, Moscatell
Region: Costers del Segre, Spain
Food pairing: Spicy Garlic Shrimp
Despite the fact that there's hardly a white grape that didn't make this blend, the balance struck by Tomas Cusine's wine beautifully marries vibrancy with elegance and volume with acidity. The most prominent grape is Macabeu, (37%) a wildflower and almond-noted grape also known as Viura and grown widely in Rioja and northern Spain. Rounding out the blend is Parellada (Macabeo's frequent accomplice in Cava), Sauvignon Blanc (bringing citrusy acidity,) Chardonnay (here spelled with X for the sake of keeping things overtly Catalan), Muller Thurgau, Riesling, Albarino and Moscatell (all adding a little richness, ripeness and body.) The resulting wine touches on everything from apple, pear and apricot to white flowers and garden herbs, bright and lively while still creamy in mouthfeel with minerality on the finish. Hey, if it turns out like this, why not taste all of Spain's whites at once?
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/16338.html
2008 Black Slate Gratallops Priorat
Grape variety: Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carinena, Merlot and Syrah
Region: Priorat, Spain
Food pairing: Lamb chops grilled with Spanish olive oil
We're always looking for wines that drink well above their price, whether a traditional bottling or something a little experimental. In the 2007 vintage, we found Black Slate Gratallops, a blend of Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet, and a bit of Carignan, Syrah and Merlot to balance things out, and were wowed. It's not the most traditional blend for Priorat, but then Priorat is fast becoming a haven for experimentation. And when experimentation results in something as expressively aromatic, full of spice and rich dark fruits with a mocha finish, we can't argue with that. Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate said of the 2007 vintage, "It may be the finest value in quality Priorat in the market," and we feel the just-released 2008 holds true to that statement.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/14787.html
Cellar Selection
2005 Orben Rioja
Grape variety: Tempranillo, Graciano
Region: Rioja, Spain
Food pairing: Aged Manchego cheese and Iberico ham
A relatively new winery outside the town of Laguardia in Rioja, Orben is primarily owned by the Izadi family with the rest of the shareholders being some of Spain's best restaurants (no doubt to secure the best allocations for their wine lists.) Their 2005 blend, another great year for Rioja, is sourced from 75 micro-parcels of old vine Tempranillo and a bit of Graciano, as is the tradition, planted between 1945 and 1954. Glass-coating and concentrated, the wine carries deep black fruits like cassis, blackberry and blueberry, with secondary notes ranging from slate and cedar to mineral, toast, anise and spice. Steven Tanzer rated it 92 points, calling it "silky and impressively elegant." Excellent now, but likely at its best from 2015 through 2020 or later.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/13576.html
2008 Terra de Verema Triumvirat
Grape variety: Carignan, Garnacha, Syrah
Region: Priorat, Spain
Food pairing: Smoky morcilla with egg and potatoes
Priorat has already gained great recognition as a world-class wine region of late, but mostly for the production of Garnacha-based wines. But at Terra de Verema, Ester Nin, also the winegrower at the lauded Clos Erasmus, makes an incredibly interesting and noteworthy wine called Triumvirat primarily from Carninena (elsewhere known as Carignan or Mazuelo) grapes. A small amount of Garnacha and Syrah round out the blend. After aging for a year in French oak, the wine is dark and complexly aromatic with black pepper, Asian spices, and rich black cherry notes. Expressive and carrying quite a long finish, Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate noted that this "suave, bordering on opulent, succulent" wine is already approachable now but will likely be even more expressive when opened in 2-3 years time. (94 Points Wine Advocate.)
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/15082.html
Premiere Selection
2007 Teso La Monja Victorino
Grape variety: Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo)
Region: Toro, Spain
Food pairing: Nicely marbled Porterhouse (dry aged)
To call the Eguren family successful in their wine ventures would be an understatement; after the recent sale of the wildly successful Numanthia brand, they're building bigger, (and some would argue better) ventures in both Rioja and Toro. The new Toro undertaking is Teso la Monja, just across the street from Numanthia (where, incidentally, the family still consults on the winemaking), and one of the jewels in that crown is Victorino, a bottling of old-vine Tinta de Toro (the local Tempranillo.) Aged in oak for 18 months, the resulting wine is bold and glass-coating, with big flavors, big tannins, big structure. When visiting Spain last year, I had the pleasure of tasting this wine alongside a lunch of grilled Galician beef, the fattiest and tastiest beef I've ever tasted. I recommend finding a nicely-marbled Porterhouse and going for the same concept.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/15006.html
2004 Remirez de Ganuza Rioja Reserva
Grape variety: Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha
Region: Rioja, Spain
Food pairing: Roasted or braised game birds
I've met a lot of winemakers in my short time in this business, but few with the kind of 24/7 passion and dedication that Fernando Remirez de Ganuza embodies. As I toured his winery in the shadow of the old Samaniego church, he quietly showed me contraption after winemaking contraption that I had never seen before, his translator quietly adding as a side-note after each one, he invented that. With that kind of ingenuity, it was no surprise to me that his winery was small and immaculate; and his wines (the critics seem to agree) close to perfect.
The 2004 vintage was an excellent year for Rioja, and among all of the 04's there's none I enjoy more than Remirez de Ganuza. Made from 4 parcels of vines that range from 34 to 97 years in age, this blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 3% Garnacha was aged for 2 years in oak before bottling and resting an additional four years. A gorgeously expressive nose gives way, right now, to a tightly-wound palate of deep black fruits, earth and toast that unfold beautifully in the glass and will only benefit from some age. Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate rated it 96 points, noting it was "youthful and tightly wound on the palate...the wine has all the components for potential greatness. Dense, lengthy and complex, with 6-8 years of cellaring this wine will be smoking!" Drink now through 2020.
More info: http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/spain/74016.html
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