Gary's Wine Club News Monthly: September 2009

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

2004 Chateau L'Evangile Pomerol

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/09868.html

Grape Variety: Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Region: Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Food pairing: Duck confit over greens and lentils

Brand: Chateau L'Evangile
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Red
Region: Bordeaux Pomerol
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
Ratings: RP 93 WS 91

2009 September Wine Club Premiere Selection

Unlike the 2005 vintage, the 2004 vintage in Bordeaux was not a particularly touted one.But that doesn't mean that no one made good Bordeaux in 2004. L'Evangile, as a matter of fact, cranked out 3000 cases of 89% Merlot, 11 % Cabernet Franc that, as it turns out, are drinking beautifully right now.

When Robert Parker first reviewed the 2004 L'Evangile in April of 2005, he had high hopes for the wine. "This...boasts a sexy, upfront bouquet of raspberries, black currants and sweet smoky notes. Lush, seductive and ripe, although not terribly deep, it offers delicious fruit in its forward, elegant, finesse-styled personality. Think of it as a lighter version of the brilliant 2000," he said, and anticipated a score of 90-93.

Just over two years later, he retasted, and decided a 93 it was after all. "A stunning example of the vintage, the 2004 l'Evangile is not far off the pace of their brilliant 2005." After noting elements of licorice, truffle, and acacia flower, he concluded, "this knock-out effort is surprisingly rich, opulent and fruity with good glycerin, medium to full body, and a stunning finish. It should drink beautifully young yet age for 15 or more years." In other words, drink this while you wait for your Lagrange to come of age.

Food pairing:Duck confit over greens and lentils

Reviews

Robert Parker 93 Points

A stunning example of the vintage, the 2004 l'Evangile is not far off the pace of their brilliant 2005. A blend of 89% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc (3,000+ cases produced), it exhibits a deep ruby/plum color, superb ripeness, and sweet blackberry, truffle, acacia flower, licorice, and toasty oak aromas. This knock-out effort is surprisingly rich, opulent, and fruity with good glycerin, medium to full body, and a stunning finish. It should drink beautifully young yet age for 15 or more years.

Wine Spectator 91 Points

The milk chocolate, berry and cedar character on the nose is subtle and refined. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a refined finish. All in finesse and elegance. Best after 2011. 3,330 cases made. -JS

International Wine Cellar 90-93 Points

Good bright ruby-red. Complex, brooding aromas of medicinal black cherry, black raspberry, cedar, graphite, minerals, menthol and flowers. Sweet, dense and pure; not superconcentrated or especially thick but stylish and vibrant. Inviting, sweet black raspberry and mineral flavors with an enticing chocolatey element. Finishes with very fine tannins and lovely lingering sweetness. One of the stars of the Pomerol appellation, and clearly deeper than the 2003 was a year ago. The alcohol here is close to 13.5%, following a bit of saignee.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/09868.html

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2005 Chateau Lagrange-Saint Julien

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/75851.html

Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
Region: Saint-Julien, Bordeaux, France
Food pairing: Dry-aged Porterhouse steak

Brand: Chateau Lagrange
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Red
Region: Bordeaux St Julien
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
Ratings: RP 91 WS 93 IWC 93

2009 September Wine Club Premiere Selection

Ok, folks, a cautious word to the wise. Throughout this newsletter and throughout the press, you've been told that the 2005 vintage of Bordeaux is one that can be drunk young or aged—a miracle vintage that goes both ways. But house style trumps general vintage every time, and frankly, Chateau Lagrange doesn't "do" young-drinkin'. So unless you love, and I mean loooove a glass full of strong tannins, give this one another year or ten.

One of only fourteen Troisieme Crus (Third Growths) in the Bordeaux classification of 1855 and the largest single vineyard among classified estates in the Medoc, Chateau Lagrange has been revived as a successful and well-respected chateau under the direction and winemaking of Marcel Ducasse. Most of the Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot planted to the property average 30 years in age, and the 2005 was one of the most heralded in recent decades. The Wine Spectator called it "beautiful, superbalanced and ultrasilky," while Robert Parker noted "Once again, the provocative words ‘the best ever made' appear in my tasting notes. In twenty-eight years, I have never tasted a Lagrange as amazing as this 2005." He went on to call out notes of olive, blackberry, cassis, cedar, barbeque smoke, but ended with a warning: "but, wow, what an excruciatingly high level of tannin." Patience, friends, patience. This should begin to drink at its best three or more years from now.

Food pairing: Dry-aged Porterhouse steak

Reviews

Robert Parker 91 Points

Sweet, toasty, oaky notes interwoven with hints of black olives, blackberries, cassis, and spice box are found in this densely saturated ruby/purple-hued 2005. While rich, with impressive concentration and purity, it is also tannic, full-bodied, and painfully backward and foreboding. This is another long-term prospect that will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2027.

Wine Spectator 93 Points

Currant, mineral, plum and light toasty oak follow through to a full body, with ultrasilky tannins and a long, caressing finish. This is thoroughly beautiful. Superbalanced and very pretty. Best after 2011. 24,165 cases made. -JS

International Wine Cellar 91 Points

Medium red-ruby. Reticent but sweet nose offers plum, black cherry, minerals and bitter chocolate. Thick and powerful but with excellent vinosity and sweetness as well as a slightly exotic character to the red fruit and spice flavors. Deep, slow-mounting wine that builds impressively on the back end. The tannins here make those of the 2006 seem a bit rigid by comparison. I was struck by the thought that Lagrange has done consistently well in the last three vintages, and that each effort is an accurate reflection of its year.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/75851.html

2005 Chateau Vieux Champs De Mars Johanna

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/63064.html

Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
Region: Cote de Castillon, Bordeaux, France
Food pairing: Blackberry-glazed roast pork loin

Brand: Chateau Vieux Champs De Mars Johanna
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Red
Region: Bordeaux Petite Chateau
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
Ratings: RP 89-91

2009 September Wine Club Cellar Selection

Those who know the producers of Bordeaux know that they're confident enough in the pedigree of their wines to insist that they don't need to take any lessons from other wine regions and their winemakers. But it seems that the folks of Vieux Champs de Mars in the Cote de Casillon have taken a winemaking trick or two from their counterparts in Burgundy. Their Cuvee Johanna was made by employing malolactic fermentation in wood as well as lees stirring, followed by aging in 100% new oak. Rather progressive of them, and the innovation paid off. Robert Parker called this wine a "big-time sleeper of the vintage, possessing superb intensity, full-bodied power, a dense purple color, sweet truffle-infused black raspberry and blackberry fruit, a beautiful texture, and long, chocolatey, heady mouthfeel as well as finish." Drink now through 2015.

Food pairing: Blackberry-glazed roast pork loin

Reviews

Robert Parker 89-91 Points

The 2005 Cuvee Johanna (also 13.5% alcohol) is aged in 100% new oak, and sees malolactic in wood as well as lees stirring, a la Burgundy. A big-time sleeper of the vintage, it possesses superb intensity, full-bodied power, a dense purple color, sweet truffle-infused black raspberry and blackberry fruit, a beautiful texture, and a long, chocolatey, heady mouthfeel as well as finish. It should drink well for a decade.

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/63064.html

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

2005 Chateau Corbin Saint Emilion

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/07745.html

Brand: Chateau Corbin
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Red
Region: Bordeaux St Emilion
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
Ratings: RP 88 WS 92

2009 September Wine Club Cellar Selection

The 2005 vintage was an excellent one for Bordeaux—many said the finest since 1982. Because of just the right ripening conditions, overall they have the concentration and tannic structure to be drunk young or allowed to evolve for years to come. In fact, while Bordeaux is often looked upon as wine that we can't even touch for at least five years after release, the 2005's have repeatedly been deemed "massive, hedonistic, plush"...words more often used to describe California Cabernets!

Critic Robert Parker advises that if we're looking for a fruit-forward rather than structured, massive 2005, we should look no further than Chateau Corbin in Saint-Emilion. This Merlot based wine is a perfect candidate to drink young (young, in Bordeaux, meaning ten years or less.) "Deliciously fruity... offering notes of herbs, black cherries, currants and a judicious touch of toasty oak," Parker calls this "lush, round and generous wine that'll drink nicely for 10-15 years."

Food pairing: Chicken and cherry yakitori

Reviews

Robert Parker 88 Points

Readers looking for a fruit-forward rather than structured, massive 2005 are advised to check out Corbin, a reasonably-priced, deliciously fruity effort offering notes of herbs, black cherries, currants, and a judicious touch of toasty oak. This hedonistic, plush, medium to full-bodied, round, generous, savory St.-Emilion should drink nicely for 10-15 years.

Wine Spectator 92 Points

Dark purple in color, showing very powerful aromas of crushed blackberry and sweet tobacco. Full-bodied, with silky, extracted tannins and lots of extraction overall, but there's still so much going on. This is big and juicy. Best after 2015. 4,415 cases made. -JS

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/07745.html

2005 Chateau Villegeorge

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/75979.html

Brand: Chateau Villegeorge
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Red
Region: Bordeaux Haut Medoc
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
PROMO:

2009 September Wine Club Reserve Selection

It's a fairly safe bet to say that if you live in Bordeaux, and your surname is Lurton, you've got it pretty good. You may have heard of Pierre Lurton, CEO of two little properties called Cheval Blanc and Chateau d'Yquem, or Lucien Lurton, who bought up 11 very prominent properties in Bordeaux (think Brane-Cantenac and Dufort-Vivens), then passed them on to his ten children in 1992. One of those lucky children was Marie-Laure Lurton, who inherited three chateaus from her father, the most noteworthy of which is Chateau Villegeorge.

Villegeorge's wines have been appreciated since the Eighteenth Century. Close in proximity to the prestigious vineyards of Margaux and sharing a similar soil type, their wines are Cabernet-dominated and elegant, with a lot of tannic structure and deep, dark fruit. Drink now or lay down for 2-3 years to mellow.

Food pairing: Seared bison filet with herbed butter

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/75979.html

2007 La Croix De Carbonnieux Blanc

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/10641.html

Brand: Chateau Carbonnieux
Style: White Wine
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Graves
Category: France
Size: 750 ml

2009 September Wine Club Reserve Selection

Every Chateau of Bordeaux has a long and complicated history behind it, and Chateau Carbonnieux is no exception. Too long to tell here, let me give you the abbreviated version of their history:

Constructed in the fourteenth century, inhabited by Benedictine monks who aren't that into wine, vines disappear from the estate. Passes on to a merchant family, two centuries pass, last members of this family unfortunately sent into exile, estate now in a sorry state. Back to Benedictine monks, now wine-lovers, vines replanted and reputation as a vineyard begins to grow. A revolution or two ensue, estate is sold to a wealthy family, then a few more wealthy families, falls to phyloxera and a sorry state once again. Doctor buys estate, revives it, sells it to industrialist, industrialist sells it to present owners, who finally bring it to the reputation it enjoys now... and makes this delicious white wine. (Phew!) We find it more friendly in style than many Bordeaux blancs, with good minerality and acidity but with more peachy tropical fruit than we often expect.

Food pairing: Raw oysters on the half-shell

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/10641.html

2005 Chateau Saint-Genes Bordeaux

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/08597.html

Brand: Chateau Saint-Genes
Style: Red Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend
Region: Bordeaux
Category: France
Size: 750 ml

2005 Chateau Saint-Genes Bordeaux

Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Region: Bordeaux, France

Food pairing: Balsamic-marinated beef kebabs

A lot of people may tell you good Bordeaux is too expensive to have on a regular basis - and a lot of people would be wrong. A blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the 2005 Chateau Saint-Genes is nothing less than an (affordable) force to be reckoned with. Stellar vintage aside, this wine truly is a representation of the land from whence it came, and brims with earthiness and spicy warmth. As one of our wine associates, Laura, who recently tasted it for the first time recalls, "flavors of menthol and tobacco take the reins on the entry, before giving way to a hodgepodge of ripe fruit and leathery mocha. The tannins are like tiny exclamation points on the palate, and while slightly dusty at first, they soon make a clean sweep mid-palate and mellow out beautifully for the long finish." I couldn't have said it better myself, (who doesn't love exclamation points on their palate?) and can't wait to have a glass with some tasty char-grilled meat kebabs.

Food pairing: Balsamic-marinated beef kebabs

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/08597.html

2008 Chateau Laulerie Bergerac Blanc

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/66550.html

Brand: Chateau Laulerie
Style: White Wine
Varietal: Bordeaux White
Region: Bordeaux Bergerac
Category: France
Size: 750 ml
PROMO:

2009 September Wine Club Vintner Selection

Technically, Bergerac isn't Bordeaux. It's an appellation located just east of Bordeaux, along the Dordogne River. Long overshadowed by its attention-grabbing neighbor, it's now coming into its own as modern winemaking techniques allow producers to make much friendlier, high-quality bang-for-your-buck wine.

The Dubard family, stewards of Chateau Laulerie, have been making wine in Bergerac since the 1970's. Over time, they found that a clean 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon gave the best balance between clean, crisp, mineral-laden acidity and soft approachable white fruit in their white wine. Grab a nice slice of runny French brie, some toast points, and apricot jam and enjoy an absolutely delightful pre-dinner combination.

Food pairing: Brie, toast points, and apricot jam

http://www.garyswine.com/fine_wine/france/66550.html

About Gary's Wine Club

With all of the monthly wine clubs out there today, Gary's Wine Club is setting a new standard. Our frequent travels to the wine regions of the world, our close relationships with winemakers, and our access to unique bottlings allow us to bring you wine selections few others have.

Each month, we taste, evaluate and sift through dozens of choices to bring you the best buys of the season, both for immediate celebrations and for long-term cellaring. Each bottle gains our personal seal of approval ... from a team that really knows their wine!

Join our club today and experience a new adventure every month!

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

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